p. o. e. (point of entry) PURIFICATION

Healthy Water Guy customizes each and every system they engineer and install.  A common configuration is as follows:  Tank #1 contains our special, tri-blend, granular purification multi-medias; Tank #2 has the amazing, "Forever Chemicals" REMOVAL purification resin; Tank #3 is our water softening component.  The smaller bin next to the water softener "Torpedo" hold the salt crystals required to soften your water.

If your apartment / condo must have an in-unit water heater (full size or tankless), with a main shut-off valve.  A SFR or townhouse must have a dedicated water main (metered) coming into the particular home.  Commercial applications are also acceptable.

Insurance regulations require that an electric, leak detection / automatic shut-off valve be installed on the main water supply line.  Contact us for more information.

Our water softener component reduces the calcium hardness in municipal and well water.  It makes your skin and hair feel so nice, hydrates better, reduces calcium spots on the your shower glass doors, reduces calcium scale in your appliances, allows for detergents / soaps to lather so much more easily.  It feels lovely!

The multi-medias / resins in your pre-filtration system CANNOT LAST FOREVER.  Being proactive is essential. Knowing when to "rejuvenate" or replace the cartridges, multi-medias and resins in your system, is best determined via a certified lab water test. The amount of water produced daily, combined with your "adversity" to the contaminated water, will be your guide. No set monthly / yearly time prediction can be offered, as we know the quality of our source water, is declining rapidly.

Municipal water is consistently monitored for bacteria and germ contamination.  Many clients do desire to have an "extra layer of sanitizing" for their water system.

If your "Torpedo" tank has an electronic, digital, control valve, you should lift the cover once a month to be certain that the LCD clock is displaying the correct time.  Resetting the time is easy, and an instructional manual is available via Q. R. code.  Simply remove the black, outer cover of the valve and look inside for the code.  Send us an e-mail if you need more assistance.  Other than that, the tank(s) will perform perfectly for years to come.

CHLORINE.  The job of Tank #1 is to greatly reduce the heavy amounts of chlorine put into the municipal water supply for bacteria control.  Chlorine ruins softener resin.  Again, you have to be proactive in the "rejuvenation" interval of that tank, or you will also be paying us to replace the resin in your softener tank.

Keep it filled at the 50% - 100% level at all times.  The water level should be 33% of the empty tank capacity.

It comes from using low-cost, store-bought softener salt crystals or pellets.  It will not harm you and does not make its way into your house.

Healthy Water Guy customizes each and every system they engineer and install.  A common configuration is as follows:  Cartridge #1 (INLET) contains our special, tri-blend, granular purification multi-medias; Cartridge #2 has the amazing, "Forever Chemicals" REMOVAL purification resin; Cartridge #3 is another "tri-blend" for adding effectiveness and chemical reduction.  This is a space saving system, thus requiring the replacement of the cartridges at regular intervals.

Municipal water is consistently monitored for bacteria and germ contamination.  Many clients do desire to have an "extra layer of sanitizing" for their water system.

The multi-medias / resin in your pre-filtration system CANNOT LAST FOREVER.  Being proactive is essential. Knowing when to "rejuvenate" or replace the cartridges in your system, is best determined via a certified lab water test. The amount of water produced daily, combined with your "adversity" to the contaminated water, will be your guide. No set monthly / yearly time prediction can be offered, as we know the quality of our source water, is declining rapidly.

Nothing at all except sometimes the sump (housing) can rotate open due to pressure fluctuations.  If water is dripping from the where the sump screws into the base, then it needs to be tightened.  Simply turn off the main water valve, open a faucet to release the pressure, and use the sump wrench to gently turn the housing counter-clockwise to tighten.  You can also hand tighten.  DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN AS A COMPLETE FAILURE OF THE SYSTEM COULD OCCUR.

The multi-medias / resin in the cartridges capture and hold onto the contaminants.  When that occurs, the path for the water to travel to your faucet, become obstructed.  It is time to change the cartridges.  Call us to schedule a servicing appointment.

The multi-medias / resin in the cartridges capture and hold onto the contaminants, have performed well and no longer have the capability to purify the water.  Call us to schedule a servicing appointment.

Absolutely and it's very easy...as long as you follow the steps detailed on our "Installation" document below.  You can purchase replacement cartridges from us, or anywhere a 2.5" X 10" filtration cartridge product can be obtained.  The sizing of our systems is universal.  *SEE NEXT SECTION

RO (reverse osmosis) systems have many unique components.  Not to mention, they are configured to handle various types of water sources.  Contact us for more advice.

Floodstop FS3/8C control panel is beeping, the red LED is flashing & no water is being produced from the spout:

Follow the wire that leads down to the sensor bar, which looks like a computer circuit board. Confirm that the cloth or paper towel it is wrapped in, is dry.  Determine the source of moisture, remedy, re-wrap the sensor bar and place back inside of the cabinet.

1/4" or 3/8", sponge-triggered, automatic leak detection shut-off device.

Make certain that the trigger sponge has not become enlarged due to moisture detection.  The shut-off arm above the sponge base, will also be in the raised position.  Determine the source of moisture, remedy and replace the sponge.

1.  Well has gone bad.

2.  Well pump overheated and the PVC components have become deformed.

3.  Pressure switch has malfunctioned.

4.  The well pump has gone to heaven.

5.  There is a supply line break between the well head and pump.

6.  There is a supply line break between the aerator tank and distribution pump.

7.  The pressure tank is bad.

8.  The float switches in the aerator tank are malfunctioning.

1.  Tannin / Iron Breaker tank electronic control valve is not functioning properly.

2.  Softener tank electronic control valve is not functioning properly.

SHALLOW WELL:

1 year

DEEP WELL

2-year intervals

Only if they become compromised by bacteria or chemicals, or they no longer perform as engineered.

ANNUALLY FOR OPTIMAL EFFECTIVENESS

Luminor brand lighting based on ballast control LED indication

Viqua brand lighting based on either the ballast control LED indication or the blue LED no longer illuminating

Keep it filled at the 50% - 100% level at all times.  The water level should be 33% of the empty tank capacity.

It comes from using low-cost, store-bought softener salt crystals or pellets.  That residue (dirt) will not harm you and does not make its way into your house.